Simple dinners made in a single pan are the essence of home cooking. Here the hearty heft of crisp butterbeans is lifted by citrus-laced kale, while beetroot, thyme and orange lend their earthy notes to a serving of orzo pasta
Anna Jones
Monday 16 October 2017 12.00 BST
Iread a restaurant review this weekend in which the writer talked about the head chef being “the rarest of creatures”: a chef without ego. The idea of ego in food has come up in conversation a lot recently. It’s often thought to be what distinguishes home cooking from restaurant cooking, though there are exceptions: you’ll certainly find ego-driven cooks in home kitchens and the most gentle, generous cooks in restaurants.
It’s had me thinking about what home cooking really means. What would be the most ego-less dish? A boiled egg? A bowl of cereal? Beans on toast? They all stem from a need to get food on the table for hungry people quickly, be that yourself or those you love. It’s an act of giving. And that’s the definition of home cooking that I’ve settled on.
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